Suit up, gentlemen.

25 May 26

In a world of increasingly casual dress standards, it can sometimes come as a shock to new masons that masonic events nearly uniformly require exacting standards of formal wear. For many, it might be the first time since their high-school formal!

Above - Beau Brummell, Regency fashion icon

By Bro Simon Pierce and Morris Farah

So they trot along to their nearest suit retailer and tell the assistant they need a cryptic set of garments called a ‘phooldinnahsoot’ and are guided through a baffling series of seemingly random choices until they stagger out with full bags and a light wallet.

But the world of suits is a surprisingly deep and complex one, full of small signifiers and opportunities to express your taste and style, should that be of interest to you.

History

Men’s suits have their origins in the court dress of the 17th and 18th centuries. Fashion was typically dictated along a strict class hierarchy and influenced by the whims of the monarch. In earlier centuries, menswear was a display of wealth and power, full of bright colours and fanciful shapes. In England, none embodied these trends more than members of the ‘maccaroni club’ – young men who had spent years travelling in Europe and had developed a taste for the ‘foreign’. They loved wearing vibrant colours, colourful stockings and flamboyant wigs. This androgynous style of dress coupled with their scandalous reputation led to them being widely mocked in polite society.

By the late 18th century, such styles of dress were increasingly seen as out-of touch and effeminate. Industrialism was on the rise and practicality was starting to be prioritised above all else. In a movement called the ‘Great male Renunciation,’ luxury fabrics were replaced with hard-wearing material and bright colours gave way to the dark and sombre. But when fashion trends towards the uniform, there are those who still want to stand out. Enter the British Dandy.

Whilst the term today carries a negative connotation, at the time, a dandy was a man who sought to express himself through his dress, but within the bounds of fashion rather than against it. They favoured impeccable tailoring, quality materials and a care and attention to personal hygiene that would make the most over-coiffed TikTok ‘looksmaxxer’ appear slovenly and ill-kempt by comparison.

The most famous dandy was Beau Brummell, a man so dedicated to his appearance that he was rumoured to take five hours a day to dress himself. Brummell had the ear of the Prince Regent and a cutting wit, making him a terror of Regency England’s social pages and perhaps the first social media influencer!

So renowned was his taste in clothing, Brummell is often ‘credited’ with inventing modern men’s fashion. While this isn’t true, he did popularise and helped cement the already-growing ideals of formalwear as it developed over the next two centuries.

Suits for masons

All that is the long way to say that there are two suits that should form the basis of every mason’s sartorial armoury. These are the business (or lounge) suit and the dinner suit. If one advances far enough, a third suit (white-tie) may become necessary, but that’s another level of formality altogether, and possibly worth an entire article of its own. We sat down with Morris from Rembrandt to draw on his years of experience in the suit business and sort through the wealth of sartorial information out there.

A business suit is the one with which most men are familiar. It consists of a matching (or sometimes complimentary) jacket and trousers of the same fabric, worn with a collared shirt, necktie and dress shoes. Lounge suits were once a distinctly different style, but they have cross-pollinated to such an extent that the term is more or less interchangeable. Suffice it to say, nearly any plain, dark suit is appropriate.

However, if you’re attending a masonic event after 6pm (or after dark, whichever is earlier) you will be expected to wear a dinner suit. UGL’s Approved Masonic Dress, Aprons, Gauntlets, Collars and Jewels of Rank guide specifies the following:

Black dinner suit;
White dinner shirt with black buttons or studs;
A black bow tie; R black shoes and socks; and
White gloves (optional).

Which, though it may seem restrictive at first glance, allows a surprising amount of possibility for personalisation. Let’s break it down.

The Dinner Suit

A dinner suit is a black two- or three-piece suit, typically wool, with peak or shawl lapels in satin or grosgrain. The jacket can be either a dinner or tuxedo jacket, with the tuxedo being the slightly more formal of the two. Both single- and double-breasted styles are common.

At some lodges and in hot weather it may be permissible to wear a white ‘Eton’ style jacket instead – a single-breasted military-style jacket that ends at the waist. Check the guide to see when and where it’s appropriate.

The dinner jacket should be wide enough to hug your shoulders and fall naturally to your arms. The bottom of the jacket should hang somewhere around level with your knuckles and the sleeves should allow your shirt cuffs to peek out a little when relaxed at your sides. A dinner jacket should classically always be worn with a cummerbund or low-cut waistcoat – either is perfectly acceptable, they are designed to conceal where the trousers meet your shirt.

Speaking of trousers, they should be made of the same material as the jacket, and you’ll usually buy them together. It’s a good idea to get an extra pair if you can afford to do so, as they’ll wear out faster than the jacket. Unlike a business suit, formal trousers don’t come with belt loops, so unless you’re blessed with a very specific body type and a very good tailor, you’ll likely also need a pair of braces.

Dress trousers often feature a strip of fabric running down the sides of the legs, often in the same contrasting mate rial as the lapels. Called a ‘galon,’ this feature evolved from military dress and any visible tailoring. These days galons are a classy touch that serve to emphasise the wearer’s height. The final thing to consider is the length. The key thing to look for is called the ‘break’ – where the front of your trouser leg meets your shoe, forming a horizontal crease. This is a matter of personal taste, but a good rule of thumb is if you’re taller, more break looks good.

You can purchase an appropriate dinner suit from most suit retailers, though it’s usually advisable to approach one with masonic knowledge if possible, as they can help answer specific questions you may have. Keep in mind that a higher-quality suit typically allows more options for tailoring the fit, should you choose to do so at time of purchase or further down the track.

The dinner shirt

The dinner shirt is a white (always), stiff, often pleated shirt that helps give structure to your overall look – it should sit neatly under your jacket without being baggy. They come in a variety of styles, but the most important choices are the collar and cuffs.

The collar can either be turn-down or wing, with wing being the more formal choice. However, unless you’re wearing a self-tied bow tie, always choose turn down, as the fastening will be visible with a wing collar. Cuffs have many fewer rules, and can be a way to show off your personal style.

Broadly speaking, cuffs are either barrel (including one or more buttons, as in most business shirts) or French (which are rolled back on themselves and secured with cufflinks). Both styles can be angled, rounded or square in shape.

Your shirt may or may not have buttons – if not, you will need to invest in a set of studs. The guide specifies black studs, but even with that limitation there are still plenty of options to customise your look. Just avoid plastic if you can, as they won’t last.

The rest

That’s a lot to take in, so let’s quickly go over the rest. Your bow tie should be black, though whether you go self-tied, adjustable pre-tied or clip on is up to you. Self-tied is the most classic choice, but we must recognise the usefulness and accessibility of the alternative options. Your shoes should be classic black patent leather and without too much extra detail that detracts from the look. Socks should be black and should fit well enough that they won’t sag over the course of the evening. Calf-length is recommended, but if you aren’t flashing any ankle, you’ll be fine!

Accessories and Regalia

As a mason, if you’re wearing your suit to an event, you’ll typically also be wearing your apron. It should be worn over the jacket of a business suit but under the jacket of your dinner suit. Either suit can be complemented with the addition of a pocket square, unless you’re wearing medals or miniatures.

It is permitted to wear appropriate masonic jewels at lodge meetings – consult the guide to determine the spe cifics of where, when and how many are permitted.

Finally, there are cufflinks, if your dress shirt requires them. They’re a chance to add a touch of personal flair to your suit, and indeed specialty masonic cufflinks are widely available and are a popular choice.

Care and feeding of your formalwear

Now you’ve invested in your suits, there are some simple tips to keep them looking their best. This assumes your suits are made of wool – if yours isn’t some of the specific advice may not apply, so double-check that label!

Let your suit air out – wool is semi self-cleaning, and by allowing your suit to be exposed to air for 24–48 hours will prevent the growth of odour-producing bacteria.

Invest in a suit brush and use it! This is a hand-held brush whose bristles are soft enough not to damage the fabric but stiff enough to remove particulates. Brushing after wearing helps maintain the suit’s natural fibres and texture.

Hang it on a sturdy wooden hanger. Suits are heavier than most plastic hangers will handle, and a thin wire hanger will deform your suit over time. Any broad (3–5cm) hanger will do, but consider getting a dedicated suit hanger, as they will usually also incorporate one or more special trouser bars to keep it all together.

Never wash your suit! Suits should be dry-cleaned, and then only sparingly as the chemicals used in dry cleaning will degrade your suit over time. And you should always get your jacket and trousers cleaned together (both pairs, if you have them) so that the whole suit wears in the same way.

Same for your dinner shirt! Unless you are a much more accomplished laundry-person than the author, the difficulty in maintaining the stiff, pleated fabric is best left to the professionals.

It may be wise to invest in a good handheld garment steamer. Even a carefully-stored suit can develop wrinkles and a steamer is a gentler (and more foolproof) way of smoothing the fabric than an iron. (Never use an iron on your suit unless you’re confident that it won’t cause damage!) Steaming also helps clean and remove bacteria at the same time.

Spot cleaning can be done with a clean, undyed cloth and a mild deter gent. Some people suggest vodka in a spray bottle, but if you’re unsure, ask the retailer. When spot cleaning, always test in an inconspicuous area first, and lightly dab, never rub! Rubbing at a stain might damage the fabric or worse, spread the stain!

Finally, we must address the malady that will affect us all in time. That’s right, Shiny Suit Syndrome. You’ve probably noticed that suits sometimes develop unsightly shiny patches, or even the whole garment develops a slight sheen. SSS is caused when the fabric is crushed and the fibres flattened with repeated wear and tear, but there are steps you can take to significantly delay the onset of this condition:

Some fabrics, like wool, are naturally more resistant to SSS than others, so choose your suit carefully!
Regular brushing after wear helps restore the nap of the fibres, lifting and resetting them.
Choose your dry cleaner carefully! The most common cause of SSS is incorrect cleaning processes (too much heat and pressure). If possible, choose a dry cleaner that specialises in formal wear, or ask around your lodge for recommendations

Apron cleaning

The lambskin of a masonic apron will naturally discolour over time. A lot of masons regard this natural ageing as a sign of respect and dedication to the Craft, and if your apron is inherited, as evidence of the masonic lineage it represents.

But what if your apron is accidentally dirtied or stained? There are a few things you can do to try cleaning simple stains.

First, remove any decorative elements to avoid them getting accidentally damaged. Water will irreparably damage silk and other chemicals may tarnish metal elements.

If it’s simply dirt or debris, try a soft brush, working in a circular motion to try and avoid working the particles deeper into the grain. You can also make a gentle cleaner from a small amount of distilled water and saddle soap. Be sure to work from the edges in to avoid spreading the dirt.

For more stubborn organic stains, you can try an enzyme-based leather cleaner. Be sparing and allow plenty of time for the enzymes to do their work. As always, be sure to test somewhere inconspicuous and follow all directions carefully.

After any cleaning, it’s imperative to dry your apron properly to prevent cracking or water stains. Lay your apron flat on clean absorbent towels away from direct heat or sunlight. Change the towels periodically to prevent the moisture being reabsorbed. It may take a day or two for it to dry fully, so be patient!

Finally, application of a good light coloured leather conditioner after any cleaning is essential to restore its supple ness and help protect from future staining. In fact, it’s a good idea to do this regularly to prolong the life of your apron.

And if you’ve got an old stain that’s set in, or an ink stain, you’ll need to seek professional help. Try asking leather restoration services and see if they’ll help you out.

And if all else fails, treat it as an honourable scar earned in service, doing its job of protecting your clothes from the rigours of masonic life!

Do’s and Don’ts

Consider leaving your wristwatch behind, as it can disturb the lines of your cuffs; wear a pocket watch instead, especially if you’re wearing a waistcoat.
If you’re wearing braces, don’t be seen without your jacket. Visible braces is an extremely informal look!
Avoid putting things in your jacket pockets – it will disturb the fit! Things in your trouser pockets will be much less visible.
Many dinner jackets will only have one button, but if yours has two or more, never fasten the bottom button, it’s considered ‘stuffy’ and will change the fit of the jacket for the worse. If your dinner jacket is double-breasted, be aware of the jigger! That’s the inner button that helps secure the overlap.
While we’re talking buttons, make sure to unbutton your jacket when you sit down – it’s more comfortable and your jacket will fit better. Just remember to fasten it again when you stand up!